BRIGGS AND STRATTON 42A707 HOW TO DO IT

Gas shoots out over the top of the top of carberator and dumping a lot of fuel down the intake.Briggs and Stratton 42A707-2238-E1 Exploded View parts lookup by model. The problem is that it floods out as soon as I try to turn it over. I have rebuilt carberator with new jets, needle valve, and cleaned. I have a MTD Yard Machine with a Briggs and Stratton 18 hp Twin oppose cylinder Model 42A707.

You should have about 12 volts.Next, check the voltage at the starter with the key in the start position. Alternator Controls Electrical Governor.To diagnose this problem, you will need a voltmeter.First, check the battery voltage by using the voltmeter on each battery terminal. How to Diagnose Your Lawn Mower Engine's ProblemBriggs and Stratton 42A707-2238-E1 Engine Parts. This guide will help you diagnose and fix your hard-to-start Briggs & Stratton engine. If you want to droll books, lots of novels, tale, jokes, and more fictions collections are in addition to launched, from best seller.

Briggs And Stratton 42A707 How To Do It

You have to bring each piston to its respective TDC to adjust each cylinder's valves. Adjusting the valves is a relatively simple project requiring only a few tools and once you learn how to do it, you should include it with your annual maintenance program.Twin Cylinder Engines Require Treating Each Cylinder SeparatelyIf you have a twin cylinder engine, you have to treat each cylinder separately. If all this checks out okay, then it's a reasonable diagnosis to suspect the compression release.Proper performance of the compression release requires proper valve lash adjustment. A drop of a volt isn't a concern. With one lead from the voltmeter on the post on the starter where the cable connects and the other lead to a good ground such as the engine block, there should be about the same voltage as there was at the battery. What you have to do is ensure that all safety features are activated just as though you are starting the engine.

There is a gasket between the valve cover and head. These screws are usually 3/8' or 7/16' hex head and are removed using a socket and ratchet. It will have OHV stamped into it and is held on with four screws/bolts. This will be the silver cover on top of the engine head. First, you need to access the valve cover.

If the dowel starts to become caught in a bind, back the piston up and remove the dowel. Slowly turn the flywheel by hand while holding the dowel against the piston, and you will feel the piston move. You should feel the top of the piston. At this point, take the wooden dowel and insert it into the spark plug hole. Once the intake valve closes, the piston will be headed to the top of its travel, or Top Dead Center (TDC).

Now remove the dowel and make another mark 1/4' above the first mark. Find a spot on the head that's easy to see, and mark the dowel where it lines up with that spot. With the piston at TDC, rock the flywheel back and forth to find the highest spot of the piston travel using your dowel.

Then tighten the lock screw back down. It should be a snug fit, and the gauge should have some resistance when trying to pull it out. Then tighten the retaining nut until the feeler gauge will just barely slide in and out.

( Note: If you have a twin cylinder engine, you have to treat each cylinder separately. Both PermaTex and anti-seize are available at any auto parts store, as well as the tools required. We also use anti-seize on the valve cover screws. If the gasket tore when you removed it or it isn't in the best of condition, you can either purchase a new gasket or do what we do in the shop and use PermaTex Ultra Black to re-seal the valve cover. 006' gauge, and replace the valve cover.

It usually take a few tries to do this right if you've never adjusted valve lash. Don't worry if it's still doing the same as before. Once you have the valve cover back on, you're ready to start the engine.

I got one in to repair that had the additional problem of gas getting into the cylinder from the carb. But please understand, due to constraints within this type of forum, there is just no way for me to do that here.You would think the shops would know about these problems. Several people have sent me messages asking for further help in diagnosis. If you can't get it right after several tries, you may have a different problem which will require further diagnosis.Thank you for reading this, and I hope it is of some help.

Turns out the the head gasket blew between the cyl. It was then starting easily but smoked badly. I got the extra gas out and after jumping the battery it finally started. Will do the same as the decompression not working.

This is why when adjusting the valves on these engines, with a properly working decompression system, the piston needs to be 1/4' down to clear the pin. So this means the compression release pin on the intake lob of the camshaft is not functioning. When it was starting easily and smoking badly the burned spot in the gasket was a built in compression release. Engine returned to previous problem of not turning over. Changed the gasket adjusted the valves.

I reset both to factory spec using procedure you described and the motor now starts easily and runs smooth. All looked like new when I pulled the valve cover no sludge or varnish. I found the exhaust at 0.010 and intake at 0.005. I just acquired a Husqvarna tractor with a 20 HP Briggs Intek single cylinder motor that would not start easily.

Is 438 hours on this engine considered a lot or should i expect many more with correct maintenanceThank you I have a 20 hp Intek single cylinder Hsuqvarna tractor just acquired as a clear it out of my garage find. Also the plug was black and wet when pulled to set the valve lash. Could this be the electronic ignition starting to fail? I have an inductive timing light to check for spark during any misfire but is there any better test that does not require waiting for the misfire to happen short of replace and see. The engine has 438 hour run time on the tractor hour meter. I found the gray wire to the fuel cutoff solenoid partially melted to the motor heat shield but still not the issue even after repair. A wait of 2-3 minutes and it will start and run fine for another 5-10 minutes and the cycle repeats.

Last issue I have is after about 10 to 15 minutes the motor starts to miss fire 2 or 3 times in a row does this 4 or 5 times and then shortly dies. This was a great helpful post. Used described procedure and starts like a champ. 005 438 hours on the meter guess valves where never adjusted.

I have an inductive timing light ( yes I run old Land Rovers which require old school tools) but have not checked for no spark yet.Is there any known issue with fuel pump or vapor lock on these motors.Is 430+ hours considered end of life by Briggs for this motor.This will cause higher fuel usage as well as a loss of power. The ability to restart after a short cool down wait period seems to point there. Could this be the ignition module. Though I found the issue with the gray lead to the fuel cut off solenoid partially melted to the motor heat shield but no luck.

By having the coil tight to the flywheel like that, you advance the spark by maybe a couple of degrees which improves the fuel burn. Also air-cooled engines are very dependent upon proper valve and ignition timing for cooling and the prevention of carbon build-up.For maximum performance on a stock engine, adjust the valves to the tight side of the specification and adjust your ignition timing by making sure that the coil is no more than the thickness of a dollar bill that's been folded three times.